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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.